YEAR of the HORSE! And we're off.... to a great start!

A horse crashes into the back of a car during a 'sulky' race and is abandoned, left to succumb to its wounds. It's questionable if some horse owners even 'truly' try to take care of the horses in their care (whether it is their own or others) the horse is left in poor condition looking for a new home and then becomes someone else's problem because they no longer have the time?

And now Alberta is Culling, to control the 'wild horse' population. It's questionable who traps the horses and what in fact happens to them after they're captured?

Are there no other options? Can they not drop bales of hay? Or geld the males so the horses can no longer re-produce if the growing population is a concern? 

After giving this some deep thought I understand something. We all want to blame someone, blame the government for culling the horses, blame the horse for no longer being 'suitable'. But what are WE doing about any of this as individuals and are we taking responsibility where we should be? The sulky racing should be banned by the government, some people can't be left to make those types of decisions or judgment calls regarding racing a horse and cart on a city street, but has anyone pursued having it banned or just complained about it? 

With respect to re-homing a horse because it is no longer suitable? Why not change your needs for the horse? Is there no room on the acreage to put it out to pasture, has it not earned it's retirement rights over years of service to you? If there is no acreage you can retire the horse to and you only own one which you need to ride, can you not re-home the horse with a few good years left in him rather than waiting until he is too old, or arthritic to be of any use other than a pasture ornament to someone else? This limits their odds of finding a good 'forever home'. At minimal, is it not possible to take good care of them during, and up until, they are re-homed so they appeal to more potential people looking for the right horse? Most people are looking for a horse they can bond with and get to know, when a horse (or any animal) isn't well/healthy it's hard to get to know them as the chances are they will seem like an entirely different horse when they get better~ it's like setting them up for failure.. "the horse was so calm/quiet when I got him, now he's too energetic and I am not able to handle him" 

Lastly, with regards to the HORSE Culling, when we're are completely honest, these are not 'WILD' horses. Don't get me wrong, I'm against it, but they are Feral Horses. This means much like the stray dog and cat problems we have around the world these horses were, at one time, someone’s domesticated horse. Whether they are 'descendants' of a domesticated horse is irrelevant, my point is that something, somewhere went wrong and a HUMAN FAILED THEM. How does a domesticated horse become wild, was it released or thrown away because it was no longer 'suitable'? Now they are being culled, whose fault is that? How did they get their? The Government didn't put them there, it's a system not a person. I am sure there are other alternatives, but unfortunately sometimes it is thought that PEOPLE need to be reminded (similar to when statistic's are released on how many cats and dogs are euthanized each day, week, year) that there is a severe CONSEQUENCE to our lack of responsibility or negligence. Sadly, the person is usually not the one to pay for it, but the horse, dog or cat is. 

SO WHAT CAN WE DO TO HELP? TO CHANGE THIS? Well, we could donate bales of hay, but that would be ongoing and if the population continued to grow the need for hay would increase, we could donate money to geld all the males, but there are risks (infections, complications etc) involved. They are feral, WILD like, un-domesticated horses and 1200 lbs is a lot heavier of an animal then most stray dogs or cats. We could perhaps RELOCATE THEM TO A RESCUE, but from what I understand most rescues are FULL of horses that were abandoned, surrendered, brought in by the SPCA or pulled from AUCTION. There aren't many people able to offer land for a rescue horse let alone a feral one. 

So here's my suggestion, donate whatever you can of your time or money to rescues AND make the right conscious decisions. If you don't like that horses are being killed and possibly destroyed or sent to slaughter and breed - STOP BREEDING HORSES! Realize you're only adding to the already exiting problem. If you love horses and want to make a difference, rather than breed that Mare to the Stud and have a cute foal (who will one day be a, not so little, horse that is no longer 'suitable' and in need of a forever home) adopt a rescue horse, foster a horse or rescue one from auction - make a positive difference. Please don't bring another animal into the world that has the potential to live 30 years or more unless you know you will be able to provide a GOOD forever home for them FOR the duration of IT's LIFE! 

Pedigree & History

Interesting when you look into a horses pedigree and the story it tells of it's history. 

25 Greatest American THOROUGHBRED Racehorses

1. Man o'War (1917-1947) 
2. Secretariate (1970-1989)
3. Citation (1945-1970)
4. Kelso (1957-1983)
5. Count Fleet (1949-1973)
6. Dr. Fager (1964-1976)
7. NATIVE DANCER (1950-1967)
8. Forego (1970-1997)
9. Seattle Slew (1974-2002)
10. Spectacular Bid (1976-2003)
11. TOM FOOL (1949-1976)
12. Affirmed (1975-2001)
13. War Admiral (1934-1959)
14. BUCKPASSER (1963-1978)
15. Colin (1905-1932)
16. Damascus (1964-1995)
17. Round Table (1954-1987)
18. Cigar (1990 - )
19. Bold Ruler (1954-1971)
20. Swaps (1952-1972)
21. Equipoise (1928-1938)
22. Phar Lap (1926-1932)
23. John Henry (1975-2007)
24. NASHUA (1952-1982)
25. Seabiscuit (1933 - 1947)

Additionally,  Man o'War sired: Seabiscuit & War Admiral, BUCKPASSERS Sire was TOM FOOL and Grandsire Man o'War, Kelso's Grandsire was Man o'War and Roses' (not shown on list) Great Grandsire was Colin. 

Great Names for STANDARDBREDS 

• AMBERCROMBIE
• ADIOS 
• BRET HANOVER 
• ON THE ROAD AGAIN (Horse Hall of Fame Inductee & Horse of the Year) 
• SILENT MAJORITY (Horse Hall of Fame Inductee)
• MEADOW SKIPPER (66 Million Earning Sire to Ralph Hanover & Most Happy Fella)  

Standardbred ADIOS

Standardbred BRET HANOVER

Transporting Your Horse (Safely)

I read an article about two women transporting their dressage horses, when the unexpected happened. Someone rear-ended their horse trailer causing it to disconnect from the hitch, pass them then sideswiped their truck. You can read the entire story by clicking on this link: The Horse Journal 

The end result - the truck spun out, while the trailer flipped and hit the ditch. In the end the horses survived (thank God), although sore and banged up - nothing was broken or scraped causing either their life. The two woman attribute this to two things: one, their leather halter as they snapped when necessary, two, their leg wraps - protecting from cuts, gauges and absorbing impact. They recommend exercising caution. 

I'm going to invest in shipping boots, and a leather, or break-away halter. In our case a head bumper or helmet as well,  as our TB is quite tall and even in easy, short trips can bump his head - hard enough and this can cause him to stumble or fall and tied can create a dangerous scenario. 

Front Boot/Leg Wrap

Rear Boot/Leg Wrap

Bumper Guard/Helmet (Attaches/Adjust to any Halter)

Break-Away Halter, Leather Top

Padded, Leather Transport Halter

Additionally, keeping an EQUINE TRAVEL EMERGENCY KIT including:

• Spare Tire - for both the trailer tire and vehicle
• Tire Iron - for both the trailer tire and vehicle 
• Tire Guage
• Jumper Cables
• Cell phone or CB Radio
• Duct Tape
• Electrical Tape
• Flash light with batteries 
• Emergency Flares
• Sharp Knife
• Wheel Chocks
• Sponge & Bucket
• Water: 20 Gallons/horse
• Extra fuses, lightbulbs
• Fire extinguisher (also good for tire and chemical fires)
• WD-40, Spray Lubricant
• Tool Kit
• Work Gloves
• Extra Halter w/Lead
• Spare Belts or Hoses
• Tow strap or Chain
• Shovel
• Kitty Litter or Salt/Gravel
• Red Flag to attach to antennae 
• Horse Blankets 
• Human Blankets
• Candle(s) & Lighter/Matches
• Food and Water 
• Gauze, Wraps, Self-Sticking Bandages
• Towels/Blankets
• Wound Coagulant like 'Wonder Dust'
• Disinfectant 
• Six inch Garden Hose 
• Bute 

Equally as important is a:  TRAIL RIDE EMERGENCY KIT

Horse Boarding Facilities

Came across an article written regarding Horse Boarding Facilities, it's well written and breaks down the things to consider when deciding to run/operate a private or commercial facility.

I'm not interested in investing into this sort of business - but for anyone who might be, it's good to read into it and do as much research as possible first.

The article is by Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development and is called: Commercial Horse Boarding Stable Industry. 

Book on Horse Handling Facilities

Critical Temperature

As a result of reading a very informative post by a website called igrow explaining the deaths of the livestock, cows, horses & sheep, in the recent blizzard in South Dakota on October 4, 2013. A very well written explaination on critical temperature and the stress the unpredictable environment can cause on a cow or horse - lead me to want to share and save the information for future reference.

The website has a handy chart ( that I have converted from Fahrenheit to Celius), along with a PDF document regarding calves, that can be found at: https://igrow.org/livestock/beef/spring-storms-and-cold-stress/ PDF document (link) on Cold Stress and Newborn Calves

The following is explained:

COLD STRESS: wet conditions alone or combined with wind create temperature effects.
A wet coat reduces insulation that the hair and hide provide and increase the rate of heat loss from the body. The TYPE of coat (summer/winter) also affects the animals critical temperature.
CRITICAL TEMPERATURE is the temperature at which the animal must increase its metabolism, or burn its own energy to maintain its body temperature. The further the effective temperature is below the critical temperature, the more energy the animal must use to maintain its body temperature.

°C - Celcius CANADA

°F - Fahrenheit US 

I don't know how to read the chart exactly, but understand the top portion. Recently, we experienced a fast, drastic change - going from +20 degrees Celcius to -11 degrees Celcius. The horses were wet and shivering as the snow was heavy and sloppy. There was a cold wind accompanying it and their coats weren't quite grown in. They are lucky to have access to plenty of good quality hay, shelter and fresh water. As a precaution we put their blankets on - mainly to keep them dry. 

Another helpful resources/sits is the South Dakota State University website 

Blanketing - BREED vs NEED

As a result of reading an article supposedly written by the Colorado 'State' University (CSU), I became concerned thinking I've been doing more harm than good blanketing our horse(s) It's said that:

"Blanketing Horses is one of the worse things that you can do to a horse in the winter"

That's a pretty bold statement that immediately had me worried, as I continued to read a flag went up here and there that led me to doubt the credibility of the article. One of the statements being:

"Not even snow or rain stops their thermostats from doing their job. Any time a horse that is outside and has a long coat is shivering it's because the horse has opted to shiver to warm itself, instead of using the option of moving"

This didn't make any sense to me. One, two things directly affect horses abilities to stay or BE warm -, RAIN and WIND. Two, whether or not the horse has DECIDED to stand and shiver or move around is not my main concern, both require energy and if its a long lasting cold streak EITHER can lead to weight loss if done in excess to stay warm.

The other thing that bothered me was, while reading this article regarding thermo heating research conducted by using equipment at the CSU (apparently), there was absolutely NO mention of REGION or BREED?

If I listened, or 'believed everything I read' my horse would be the one to suffer for it  - not me while I sit inside my heated house, in my wool sweater under my feather duvet. If left to the elements as a horse ‘should’ be, then nature in turn might take its course, being that  in nature only the strong survive. 

HORSES SHOULD BE ALLOWED TO GROW A WINTER COAT, but throughout the winter exceptions and additional care may be required for TB's, Senior horses and very young horses.... AND blanketing TOO SOON can slow down the hair growth process. I'm not saying growing a natural winter coat isn't important - I just want to point out that in SOME CASES BLANKETS MAY BE NECESSARY. In regards to MOTHER NATURE and IN THE WILD -  in my opinion, in Canada the Quarter Horses, WB's and DRAFT'S or Crosses are better prepared or equipped for winter. If our Thoroughbred was given the choice, I would be willing to bet he wouldn't choose to migrate to Canada given that his breed is a descendant of the Arabian and their origin's go back to the desert. But he can't migrate, because he's in a paddock and I suppose I shouldn't worry about that either – he chose to be there, I didn't put him there? YES I DID and therefore, he is my responsibility and in reality he is not wild, he's domesticated. 


You can visibly see on other breeds of horse, such as the Noriker a Cold-blooded Horse, that they are better suited for colder temperatures - they are thicker in frame, have a thicker mane/tale and feathering around their feet. 

NORIKER (Cold-blooded Draft Horse)

I'll blanket when necessary, it's work and I understand that - but it's my responsibility to the horse I chose to buy. If I didn't want a 'Hard Keeper' I could have chosen a Quarter horse, Warm-blood or a Draft-X. But I didn't. It isn't the end of the world, NOT BLANKETING and I don't judge those who decide not to. But, it is a risk I would like to avoid, I prefer preventative maintenance and although it's still maintenance (work) to me it's well worth it. A horse that is naturally thinner due to breed who has a hard time keeping weight on should have additional aides in helping them stay warm and keep weight. If they end up losing weight shivering, or running around to stay warm then end up sick and lose their appetite they've already lost half the battle to recover. Or, it is going to be harder on them then on another heavier set horse. What if they're sick without an appetite and they just don't have the energy to shiver/move.. they develop pneumonia, colic or a  RESPIRATORY CONDITION?

I know I'm a little worked up about this, it's misleading information that claims to come from a very reliable, accredited Equine Institute -  the only one that will be affected by it when owners believe it to be true - are the horses. Beside's, I find it somewhat impolite that the article makes a comment as if to assume I enjoy doing additional chores? I don't blanket to please myself, I blanket to assist and aide in the well being of a dependent animal. I do however, feel better when they’re taken care of as I’m sure they do as well. Here's what it said:

"It turns out that blanketing is done more for pleasing the human, than to fill a need of a horse"

That to me is the co-worker saying "quit working so hard you're making me look bad" or possibly feeling a bit guilty. I think we should think about our intent and approach : If your horse doesn't need it and someone else's horse does, what difference does it make to you personally?

NATURAL HARDINESS

The breeding of a horse or pony plays a significant part in how its body manages in different weather conditions. Horses and ponies that are native to Britain have evolved with a hardiness which makes them able to cope with quite severe Winter weather without ill effect. Originally all equines in Britain were small ponies. They lived as wild animals and the amount of food available to them in Winter limited how big the species could grow. Anything too big would have lost weight, become susceptible to the elements and would have been unlikely to survive a long or hard Winter.

As humans developed bigger and stronger equines for our own purposes, larger ponies and horses had to rely on people to provide them with extra food in the Winter and/or shelter to help them to preserve their energy reserves. A thin equine will feel the cold and use up stored fat to maintain its bodily warmth, thereby losing more weight. Horses in work will need even more food as they will also be using up energy to carry out their tasks.

Breeds from warmer countries, such as Thoroughbreds and Arabs, are well able to cope with our hot summers, but are not equipped for British Winters. They do not use their nutritional energy as efficiently, do not tend to store so much fat and do not grow such a thick winter coat. Many owners of warm or hot blooded horses tend to stable their equines overnight to shelter them from the weather. Even in a stable, most of the finer breeds will need a rug and plenty of food. There is no reason, however, why even a pure bred Arab or Thoroughbred cannot live out all year round with appropriate care. By providing a field shelter, a good quality Winter rug and a well thought out diet, the balance between energy intake and energy output should be manageable throughout the colder months.

SOURCE: http://www.redwings.org.uk/welfare-horse-care-advice-horses-in-winter.php

Not only is this article, that turned out to be a HOAX, misleading - but a lot of accredited, published articles are based in a completely different state, region, territory, continent or country. Therefore the guidelines regarding temperature are listed in Fahrenheit (°F) when CANADA uses Celsius (°C). It's not always easy to read AND weather or climate can vary substantially from province-to-province or state-to-state - even more so in a different country. I'm not positive this is always taken into consideration, but should be - along with the breed specific needs of the horse.

Big jump from - 18 & -40 C, or 0 and -40 F

For example: the article above ‘Natural Hardiness' is based out of Britain. Winter in the UK is defined as lasting from December to February. The season is generally cool, wet and windy. Temperatures at night 'RARELY' drop below -10° C. That's a substantial difference from Canada where the winters are longer, the temperatures often drop to -28° and it's not uncommon for them to go as low as -50°, (with the windchill) for a period of time in extreme conditions.


It is said that a horse's internal body temperature drops or starts to change and they begin to feel slightly uncomfortable below 20 ° F (-6° C). We don't blanket our horse(s) unless it's -24° C or more (with windchill) and they're only blanketed while it is abnormally cold out. We recently made an exception and layered, putting on a fleece sheet covered by a waterproof rain sheet as the temperature DRASTICALLY changed. It went from + 20° C to -11° C in a period of LESS than 24 hours. Not only were they unable to grow a 'coat' in this short period of time, but it was WET & WINDY. And we weren't positive they would share their shelters, or who may be left out in the cold. To avoid RESPIRATORY ILLNESS , anyone catching a cold or pneumonia we blanketed them.  In their paddocks, they are free fed, good quality hay and have access to a shelter they 'can' share. 

Here is a chart for England:  


ALL FACTORS should be taken into consideration before going based on one article or opinion. At the end of the day, you know your horse better than anyone else. I know mine wouldn't be comfortable from experience, which is why I had lingering questions I needed to answer - before I stopped blanketing him altogether.  Such as: 

• What is the breed of horse

• Where do you live and what is the climate like (can the weather change quickly)

• Can your horse grow an adequate winter coat - naturally

• Do you ride a lot and therefore groom often (this can strip the natural oils from the horses coat that help the hair repel water) 

• Is your horse in a paddock | pasture - does it have room to run freely

• Does your horse have access to a windbreak or shelter - will this keep your horse dry

• Does your horse have companions to huddle with, a hear, a paddock mate, or are they solo

• Do you increase your horse's feed to help with internal heating and to maintain weight

• Does your horse have any health conditions - heaves, respiratory condition(s), worms or parasites

• Is your horse exceptionally you (under 9 months old) or old

Two factors play a major part in disrupting your horse(s) ability to stay warm - wind & rain (or wet snow). WIND, separates the hairs - breaking the seal and whisking the heat away from the body. RAIN, or wet snow, conducts heat away from the horse and forces the hair to lay flat - enabling the coat to lock in heat.

In the still (no wind) air and sunny paddock or pasture - the winter coat absorbs heat from the SUN and the horses body traps it next to the skin. Is it SUNNY where you live, with minimal wind? 

If you think of horses as BREEDS similar to DOGS you will notice that certain breeds of dog aren't adept to winter or cold climates. Similarly, some to hot or warmer climates - this is because they were bred by humans for a particular purpose. Living outdoors throughout the year in the existing weather conditions MAY NOT HAVE BEEN TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION. Bulldog breeds DO NOT do well in heat, their muzzles make it difficult for them to breath and they can struggle with panting to cool off - result being, they can EASILY overheat and succumb to heat exhaustion. If I had to guess what breed of dog a thoroughbred horse would be comparable to - it would have to be a Greyhound:

Thoroughbred Horse

Greyhound Dog

WOULD YOU LEAVE A GREYHOUND OUT IN THE COLD?

Knowing the history of your Horse is important too. Thoroughbreds aren't raised the same way other breeds of horse are because of their purpose - racing. From a young age they are weaned and separated from other horses to prevent injuries. This carries on throughout their racing career. They are often kept indoors, in a stall, fed high energy feed and blanketed following a race or in poorer temperature. I doubt they had a fair chance, starting out, to develop the coat, or the coping skills to deal with a harsher winter. It's possible some lack social skills, which could, leave them 'out in the cold' not in the shelter. I'm not sure, but wouldn't be surprised if this could be said for the Greyhound as well. They were certainly bred for speed, not necessarily to stay warm in cold conditions. 

If you do or did decide that blanketing your hard keeper, or elderly/young horse is the better way to go then you should most definitely READ UP ON PROPERLY FITTING YOUR HORSE FOR A BLANKET as well as any RISKS OR HAZARDS associated with blanketing, such as:

• Blanket/Sheet getting caught on objects

• Another horse getting caught up in your horses blanket (straps)while kicking

• The blanket straps getting caught up in your horses legs

• A poor fitting blanket can cause rubs, sores and tender spots on your horse

• The WRONG TYPE of blanket used for the wrong purpose can be a hazard - eg. a fleece sheet for turnout when it's going to rain WITHOUT a rain sheet. A wet sheet or blanket is worse for your horse then the sheet or blanket itself.

• Overheating - should the temperature suddenly improve can lead to sweating which in turn can cause the horse to catch a chill, which isn't good either.
• Poor blanketing practice , put on too often, not taken off - can lead to your horse not developing/growing a winter coat
• Coats should be checked regularly, for rips/tears, and to assure the weather resistant/water proof still repel water - AS WELL AS checking your horse
• Blankets shouldn't be left on for days without removing or grooming your horse - this is a great opportunity to check for skin irritations or 'RAIN ROT' 

• Know that you have options to layering sheets to accommodate different temperatures.

• TURN OUTS are intended for outdoor use and SHOULD BE weather resistant

Temperature in Fahrenheit (°F)

WHEN IN DOUBT ALWAYS SPEAK TO YOUR VET, TRAINER, OR SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE!  

During the winter all horses should have: 

• Access to a shelter or wind break

• CLEAN water (should be between 7°C and 18°C to avoid impacted-iduced colic)

• Adequate forage (Hay) as this helps their internal thermo heating

• Check-ups, done by you - to make sure they're growing a winter coat, that they aren't loosing weight or excessively shivering. To assure they are drinking water and have a healthy appetite and aren't developing an illness 

I will add that in the last month our colt (who just turned 5 months old October 31, 2013) has coughed up mucus on two separate occasions as well as exhibited signs of being 'depressed'. This is believed to be due to weaning, but could be an indication that his immune system is slightly weaker. Our Mare developed MASTITIS after we separated her from her foal (high temperature, lethargic  loss of appetite, wouldn't really move - she was overall dull and un-alert). Additionally, we once left a fly sheet on our TB gelding in the summer. It was a  'cool' day, had rained  and when we arrived he was shaking so bad (chilled) we were convinced he was going to collapse from exhaustion.

These factors along with the drastic changes in weather play a significant roll in our decisions to blanket and when to do so. We ALWAYS allow for them to grow as much of a WINTER COAT as possible and do not clip, but a clipped horse would 
require blanketing. 

Lastly, the horses that are referred to as 'WILD HORSES', are not technically wild. They are FERAL HORSES. Therefore,the Wild horses we have here are of domesticated descent and even still, only the strong ones will survive. Whereas real WILD horses are genetically suited to their environment and adapted to specific climates and regions.  Check out pictures of a wild horse - the Przewalski's Horse or a descendant of a wild horse - the Heck Horse. See how different the look when you compare them to a Thoroughbred or Standardbred horse? 

Helpful Resource regarding the cold season: WINTERIZE YOUR HORSE

Hope you found some of this information helpful, I sure did. I've learnt a lot researching this topic - the horses teach us a lot as well. Listening to them I don't think you can go wrong. 

WORST CASE SCENARIO 

I originally posted this October 29 as a result of  'coming across a HOAX post that was circulating around social media' AND because around the 26 of October we had a surprise blizzard. I was not aware that, two weeks prior to this post tragedy had occurred just South of us. 

I FEEL HORRIBLE for the loss of ANY Animal ~ BUT, that being said I DO WANT TO POINT OUT.. that a week and a half maybe two weeks prior to my post South Dakota experienced an EARLY BLIZZARD I came across a news report indicating, it was believed or expected, up to 100,000 cattle, horses and sheep(I believe the count is currently around 25,000)  perished. South Dakota is closer to Saskatchewan or Manitoba, but only 17 hours away from Alberta - it's diagonally across from us on the other side of Montana, below North Dakota. Now I do realize and completely understand that it is impossible to blanket 200 head of cow or move them in such a large group - BUT, perhaps it is possible that this is exactly the type or situation where blanketing a horse may be the difference between life and death - at least o shot at giving it a chance. From what I understand it would have taken a lot of work on the owners part and if left too late may not have been possible with the wind gusts of up to 70 miles per hour. But, if a Rain Sheet was thrown on in advance and a shelter available or even a wind break - the horses might have stayed put and went into an almost sleeping state where they stand and conserve their energy. I know it takes more work on the part of the owner - but I don't think this would have been a case were the blanket would have done more damage then good, like overheating the horse.  

Although MUCH MORE SEVERE in WIND GUSTS, their surprise storm had close similarities to ours. The had a temperature of 21° C the day before, we had 20° C, their cattle did not have their winter coats, neither did our two horse and foal, the THEY HAD SEVERE RAIN, we did not - but our snow was set and soaked the horses, They had gusts of winds up to 70 miles an hour, ours were 20 km's an hour gusts. 

The MAJOR FACTOR: the cattle and horses were trapped, they didn't not have shelter being on summer pasture and they did not have access to forage to generate and maintain the energy needed to stay warm and unfortunately sercame to hypothermia and exhaustion. Our horses had a shelter and plenty of hay - were just weren't 100 % positive they would be able to SHARE, therefore USE the shelter...  SO BLANKETED THEM

For those cows, horses and sheep that did survive - It's not over yet. According to articles published by igrow.org there is a period of 7 -14 days were the STRESSED experienced by the storm can still be fatal. Ranchers are warned not to transport the animals, or vaccinate them as their immune systems will be low as well as wean or an other stressful routine that would normally be done. It is best to wait until later assuring they are well and not going to develop a respiratory infection. Here's what it says: 

Prolonged stress placed on animals, especially younger animals, due to weather events results in increased cortisol levels in the animals’ bloodstream, which can have profound effects on the immune system. Prolonged stressful events, such as the blizzard experienced over the weekend, are more significant than short-term events. o    Respiratory diseases in cattle generally have an “incubation period” of 7-14 days. Therefore, ranchers might expect that cattle affected by the blizzard could break with these illnesses over the next two weeks.o    Weaned calves may be more susceptible to coccidiosis as well. This condition will present as bloody stools, along with dehydration and depression in more severely affected calves. Prompt identification of affected calves and treatment with individual or feed-based medications is important.
§  Ranchers should consult with their veterinarian whether feed- or water-grade antibiotics, especially in weaned calves, would be appropriate for any of these conditions.
o    Long-term stress can have the effect of shifting the immune system towards production of antibodies and away from cell-mediated responses. In practical terms, this means that the body has less of an ability to respond to diseases caused by viruses. In growing cattle, respiratory diseases are often caused or started by Infectious Bovine Rhinotracheitis (IBR, or “red-nose”), Bovine Respiratory Syncytial Virus (BRSV), and Bovine Viral Diarrhea Virus (BVDV).

Some more helpful advice - to prepare for pending weather related disasters as well in advance as possible: 

• Develop an evacuation plan for weather emergencies. This plan should include emergency contacts, maps, and contingency plans

Additional Information on the South Dakota Blizzard by clicking on this link: resources/references and media coverage

A PUBLIC post I found | I covered the names and images of the people who commented

USA chart (2008) - vaccinating your foal.